If you have any questions and I'm sure you will, I ask that you check the FAQ section before contacting me, the answer might be posted there as well as some answers to questions you might not have thought of.
So enough talk feel free to explore the site and I hope to meet you on the road to Pressdom! After many months of planning they are here! This new plan set is designed to take some of the effort away from your press construct.
These are the original plans that most of the press builds in the show case were fashioned with. At any rate, it keeps you from going to the building supplies store.
I cut my plywood with my radial arm saw. I like to use it whenever I can. Most of the time, it collects dust. Today, it got to make some dust. After I cut the plywood, I made some lap joints for the top pressure plate of the press. I was so pleased that I managed to catch that before I started cutting, I failed to notice I actually had the angle wrong, too.
Once again, prototype. And they did. So, I nailed them to the plywood and then nailed a hardwood block to the act as the pressure point.
My plan was to have a lever press down hard on that point, and I anticipated the softwood lumber would compress under direct pressure. After nailing the other piece of plywood onto the base, corner guides are attached to keep the top plate where it should be. Then I made something to slip the end of the lever into. Solid maple works very well. Not very likely this will ever break under any amount of human-applied pressure.
So, then it was time to test it. I grabbed a piece of maple that was long enough to use as a lever. I carted my newly made contraption out of the workshop and got my wife to set up a linocut to print and gave it the old college try. Glue the D boards to the birch Make sure the surface of the birch and the un-notched sides of the D boards are clean.
Mix up some of the two part glue and apply to areas marked on the birch and on the un-notched edges of the D boards. Place the D boards. Clamp each D board to the birch. Make sure they do not become misaligned. Set aside until the glue has cured. Lay a couple of pieces of cardboard or blanket on a level surface as a cushion and to prevent scratches on your wood. Turn the Base, legs up, and fit it to the Bottom Platen Assembly.
Sand down any tight areas that prevent the Platen assembly and the Base from fitting smoothly together. Trace the outline of the C Boards onto the B Boards. Separate the Base from the Bottom Platen. Mix your glue and apply to the notched sections of the C boards and the marked areas of the Base boards and set in place.
Place a board across the legs on the Base and weight down or clamp together. Top Bar Turn one A board assembly cut side down. Measure 3 inches from each end. Using a square, draw a line across the width. Use the join line as a center mark Hold a pad eye centered over each of the lines and mark the screw hole locations. Drill pilot holes at the marks. Center the bottle jack guide in the center of the A board assemblies and mark screw hole locations.
Drill pilot holes at the marks and screw in the bottle jack guide to the Top Bar. See photograph. Center Bar With the long side down and cut side up, measure 3 inches from each end. On one of the threaded ends of the rods, screw a nut on as far as it will go.
Don't strip the threads. Slip the threaded end of the rod, with the nut, through the washer and rod hole. From the bottom, put a washer over the threaded end and screw a nut on until the nut is tight.
On the top of the rods, screw a nut on as far as it will go. Slip a washer over the nut. Check to see that the Top Bar is level. If it is not, adjust the nuts that were placed in 7 until the Top Bar is level. Place washers over the rods so that they rest on the top of the Top Bar. Screw nuts on the rods so they hold the Top Bar in place and level. Use one birch rectangle and the E boards.
You will use the Press and Bottle Jack as a clamp to hold the E boards in place as the glue sets. Mark the birch for the placement of the E boards Get one of your birch rectangles and decide which side is the smoothest and has the fewest flaws. Using a square, draw a lines across the width. You should have 6 lines.
Glue the E boards to the birch Make sure the surface of the birch and the E boards are clean. Rest the birch on the Bottom Platen plate and align the edges. Mix up some of the two part glue and apply to areas marked on the birch and on the long side of the E boards. Place the E boards. Carefully unhook the Center Bar and rest it on the E boards. Make sure the E boards do not become misaligned.
Tap them in place if they do. Allow the glue to cure. I engraved a copper plate to demonstrate the press. It is my lack of engraving skills and my messy printing that is flawed, not the press. Remove the Top Platen and set it aside. Lay a piece of paper over the Bottom Platen to protect it from the ink. Lay the inked etched plate face side up on top of the paper. Lay printing paper over the plate. Lay another piece of paper over the printing paper. Lay a thick printing blanket on the top.
Place the Top Platen over the printing layers. Unhook the Center Bar and rest it on the Top Platen. Pump the Jack up as far as you can get it to go. Use a pliers to release the hydraulic pressure of the jack.
Lift the jack from the bottom and press it up into the jack guide to get the jack post back into the jack and so you can remove it. Lift the Top Platen off the press.
Undo the printing layers. Be careful not to get any ink on the printing blanket. Lift your print and allow to dry. Clean off your plate. View Contest. Participated in the Epilog Challenge View Contest. Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Lazy Susan 2. Tea-light Lantern by ruths in 3D Printing. KDS 2 years ago. Reply Upvote. Azzurro Question 3 years ago. Answer Upvote. If you pull small plates this is a real workhorse with the added feature of portability.
It is a much more robust press than you will find commercially available at large art supply stores and you can build it for less! Note: This original plan set does not include CNC cut files, tiled letter size templates and itis direct drive only. If you require any of these features including a gear drive you should order the revised new version by clicking here.
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